So much has been written about Bali in recent years. The focus is always on mass tourism and the problems associated with it. Can you still go to Bali? And if so, also in the rainy season?
The Rainy season is a fantastic time to explore Bali. Nature is lush and lush. My goal is to avoid the supposed hotspots and travel to where Bali is still original. Where I only meet people when I want to meet them. Where you hardly meet any tourists at the market and make the most exciting culinary discovery there.
Jungle and infinity pool
One thing in advance. It’s my first trip to Bali. I have traveled to almost every country in Southeast Asia, but I never made it this far. Now in February, Bali is not the holiday island for Australians, it is summer and most of them are probably having fun in their own country. Nevertheless, an Australian woman tells me that it is easier to reach Bali from Sydney than Perth, which is in the west of Australia. What I’m looking for is peace and quiet. Come down and digest the long journey. It wouldn’t actually be a problem to avoid contact with people for the first few days, but then things turn out differently. I’m captured by it Warmth of the BalineseI’m so overwhelmed by the incredible flora around me and take in the view of Bali’s highest mountain from my private pool. I leave myself to gentle hands in the spa. And after two days, the nighttime sounds of the jungle have become my favorite melody. The lush greenery around me gives me energy that I urgently needed. Most of the time I lie in the shade reading and looking at the mountains. I take long walks to the rice fields around me. And only then am I ready to visit the market.
Market in Sidemen
Of course I have to go to the market. I always have to go to the market. In the small town of Sidemen there is a market every day, but only in the morning hours. Everything is over by 10:00 a.m. So I have to get out early. Everywhere there is braiding and flowers being plucked. Flowers and small woven baskets are omnipresent in Balinese everyday life. They are Offerings for the gods. Every morning these pretty little works of art appear in front of the doors of houses, shops and of course temples. There will be here Snake Fruits sold that I didn’t know there were different varieties. The larger ones are sour and come from Bali, the smaller and sweet ones are from Java. Both Bananas My driver, who drove me to the market, raves about the small, light milk bananas here Pisang Susu called. They are supposed to be incredibly creamy. In fact, there are other variants in addition to the 5 main varieties. Plantains, sacrificial bananas, dessert bananas – as if they were different fruits.
Also the popular one Krupuk are available in a wide variety of colors and shapes. I buy a bag of homemade crackers. The driver can’t explain exactly what they are, but I recognize lentils in them. They taste great. The bag costs 20 cents.
And then watch, fascinated, how routinely peanuts are ground with garlic and chilies to make a peanut sauce. I would also like a mortar like that. He’s huge. This peanut sauce is mixed with mung bean sprouts, beans and rice cakes. Tipat cantok is the name of the dish and it is eaten cold. I take a portion and am thrilled. This Rice cake therein are a real discovery. I found my first favorite dish.
Rice fields, peanuts and friendly faces everywhere
The area around Sidemen is from Rice cultivation minted, but peanuts are also harvested here. The peanuts from here are rather small and have a denser flavor than the Chinese imports. I see them being harvested for the first time and taste a fresh peanut right in the field. The taste? Clearly peanut, but grassy and fresh. In some of the fields the rice is just being planted, others are already glowing in lush green. A guide shows me fresh rice fields on the way vanilla beanswhich hang on the bushes here at the side of the path. Lemongrass grows everywhere and I’m learning it Turmeric plant from the Ginger to distinguish between them (but I’ll probably forget that because both have beautiful flowers). The workers in the fields always greet us with a smile, just as every face here greets me with an open smile. The warmth of the people is simply amazing. And of course I smile much more often here than at home. I should keep the smile and take it with me.
A lonely restaurant on the mountain
I’m actually the only guest this evening. A driver brought me here and I didn’t really realize that the small restaurant offers the most spectacular view of the Sidemen valley. It’s a simple one Warunga family-run restaurant right on the street. I sit under a tin roof and look out over the entire valley. Rain clouds are gathering, as they usually do in the early evening. Deciding what to order is difficult. Everything is tempting. Lots of fresh vegetables and tempeh. Tempeh is one of the reasons that brought me here. I want to discover how they transform this rather neutral tasting ingredient into something exciting. And as I take the first sips of my ice-cold Bintang beer (Indonesian and owned by Heineken), it starts to rain. Not just a shower, a real shower. And the mountains before my eyes sink behind a veil of water. What a panorama!
Pure relaxation and the sound of rain at night
At night I leave the door of my villa open. I want to immerse myself in the sounds of the jungle around me, they are my perfect night music. But then one night a thunderstorm comes along, lightning flashes across the night sky, and thunder sounds like a bomb is exploding right over my roof. Shortly afterwards it pours. Not this heavy tropical rain, which usually only lasts for a short time, but the rain is hurled angrily onto the earth. I have never experienced rain with such force. I stare spellbound at the thick strands of water, which are repeatedly illuminated by the lightning. The water hits the leaves deafeningly. Definitely an hour. Then suddenly it’s over again and the cicadas loudly return. And I fall into a deep sleep.
Culinary
I would like to have Tipat Cantok again, but that’s not available here in the small hotel restaurant. I can choose between Nasi Goreng (rice) or Mie Goreng (fried noodles). So every morning I eat either one or the other. for 5 days. And that’s not boring at all because I’m crazy about the pulled chicken and that Coconut sambal in addition. Continental breakfast can happily be stolen from me here. I prefer to indulge in deep dark dragon fruit and fresh papaya.
In one of the small warungs around me I discover Tempeh Manis, which consists of fine strips of tempeh and the sweet soy sauce Kecap Manis, which is ubiquitous in Indonesia. It is fried until crispy and tastes good to adore. And of course I prove to everyone that I’m on topic Sambal I’m quite open-minded. Bring on the chillies! This chili paste also works for breakfast. It’s always a reason for the locals to be happy that there are also people from other cultures who don’t shy away from spicy food.
When I asked the taxi driver on my way here what his favorite Balinese cuisine was, he replied “Babi Guling”. That’s suckling pig and we’ll get to that.
Tempeh can be bought everywhere
Mie Goreng – fried noodles
Gado-Gado
Chilis – very important for sambal
Tips and addresses
Stay overnight
The Sidemen Villas
small, fine resort with a few villas, all with private pools. The planting is loving and overwhelmingly splendid. Also has its own small spa. Perfect for arriving in Bali. The journey from the airport takes around 2 hours.
Telaga Tawang Village
Sidemen, Karangasem – Bali
Eat
Warung Makan Dwijayanti (the one with a great view)
Sangkan Gunung, sidemen
Karangasem Regency
Bali 80864, Indonesia
Warung Telaga (not far from the hotel)
excellent Balinese cuisine, simply and freshly prepared
Desa, Telaga Tawang,
Kec. Sidemen
Kabupaten Karangasem
Bali 80864, Indonesia
You often see small shops like this along the street
