Ljubljanathe city of dragons. Not only are they represented in the city’s coat of arms, four of the monsters also protect the Zmajski Bridge. They do nothing, they are made of bronze and are a popular photo motif. However, they are just one of countless motifs; the entire city is peppered with beautiful corners and details. Parks, cafes and charming alleys in the old town. Everything can be wonderfully walked on foot. Or by bike. If you haven’t brought one with you, you can rent one of the public bikes. They’re not much use, but for a rental price of one euro per hour, you can’t expect too much. Strolling around is an absolute must here. Just like sitting by the river that runs through the middle of the city. In terms of cuisine, the city, like the entire region, has become significant. And that seems carefree and is celebrated with passion. And why have I learned so little about Slovenian wine so far? I now know why and that’s another reason to come back.
Stroll through the city center
Ljubljana has one of the most consistently car-free inner cities in Europe – and, according to its own statements, the largest car-free zone in the EU. This means that as soon as you arrive, you leave the car parked, put on comfortable shoes and start walking. The only time you need the car is if you want to visit the large retail parks on the outskirts of the city because, like me, you may have forgotten a cooler bag and without it you won’t be able to transport cheese home.
First go towards the river. Through small side streets, past the Center Roga former bicycle factory that is now a modern creative center with galleries, a cooking school, a café and a wine bar. Continue towards Prešerenplatz. Always along the river. Maybe in the TarBar Drink a glass of the best kombucha because it’s still too early for wine. Deciding where to have a coffee is difficult because one café is prettier than the next. With a view of the river or preferably on a shady side street. The city seems lively, young and surprisingly uncommercialized. There are larger stores, but somehow they only stand out if you look for them. I discover a small niche perfume shop whose owner speaks so passionately about scent that I almost buy a perfume from him that, following his description, smells like stones with the sun shining on them. Extremely exciting, but who wants to smell like a stone with the sun shining on it every day? Then it’s better to smell like mezcal and chocolate.
Ana Roŝ and the JAZ
Ana Roŝ is the real reason why I came to Ljubeljana. I arranged an interview with her. I’ll have to keep a low profile about the content for a while, but I’ll just say this – it’s very inspiring.
Anyway, I’m standing in front of your restaurant in the afternoon JAZ in a small side street not far from the large Prešerenplatz. The building is modern and the interior immediately radiates a cozy warmth. Stylish, dark wood, green velvet and a wide glass front, with a small terrace. The JAZ is not her 3 Michelin star restaurant. It is, so to speak, the little sister in the capital. One that wants to be more accessible, but without sacrificing standards. Here you don’t eat large menus, but perhaps just treat yourself to something special for lunch. Her Walldorf salad with dried beets and a light kefir sauce and lovage oil is a revelation. The agnolotti with brown butter and Jerusalem artichoke as well. It’s the little special features, like the brown butter in the umami hollandaise, the bay leaf powder or the crispy buckwheat, that make her cuisine stand out. Slovenian wines are preferably served with this. I am thrilled by the first from the Štajerska Slovenija region, Selection Ana (the name is a coincidence) made from 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Blanc. I’ll make a note of it and I want to take a few bottles with me. Two days later in a wine shop I will find out that it is sold out. I ask why these wines are not better known here. Her son replies “because we don’t produce that much and we drink it ourselves.” Like in Switzerland.
The JAZ is open at lunchtime and in the evening. The 4 course lunch menu (I love lunch menus) costs €43. An unconditional recommendation.
JAZ Ljubljana
Čopova ulica 5a
1000 Ljubljana
Georgie Bistro
A new day, a new lunch menu. This time at Georgie Bistro. Chef is Gregor Jelnikar. I get a spot right next to a large bookshelf. This is definitely a special bonus because flipping through cookbooks between courses is just great. Today I choose the 5-course menu. The kitchen decides what I get. After clarifying that I eat everything apart from bananas and oysters (unlikely on a menu here), after a few delightful nibbles we start with a marcele marinated in sugar and salt with crème fraîche, trout roe and a kalamansi mayonnaise. Continue with lentil blinis with pork fillet and leek. Spicy and light. My absolute highlight is the radish “cacio e pepe”. More hydrated and rehydrated radish in a spicy sauce with cheese, aromatic pepper and lime. This is so good that I talked to the sous chef about it Gal Mavretic have to talk. And who was very willing to tell me all about it. About the fact that you have to peel the radish twice, that it is cooked a second time in brown butter, soy sauce and broth and that the cheese is Jamar which is stored in 70 meter deep caves in the karst region. And that the sauce becomes so wonderfully smooth with sodium citrate. I definitely have to cook this at home, no matter how laborious it would be to hydrogenate the radish. I’ll also find out where I can buy the cheese for it. I have to go to the market for that. I love this restaurant. It’s a reason to come back.
Sous chef Gal Mavretič, Georgie Bistro
Georgie Bistro (be sure to reserve)
Cufarjeva ulica 5,
1000 Ljubljana
Wine bars and where to buy Slovenian wine
Another advantage of the great lunch menus is that you are actually no longer hungry in the evening. Actually. A little maybe. So I walk to the river again and sit in a wine bar. The waiter explains to me that today is a special day Wine bar Mosttoday there are only certain wines whose winemakers are all here. Actually it couldn’t be better, I’m sitting right by the river, the evening is mild and every wine I order is something special with a detailed introduction by the producer. Then of course I get hungry and order a caprese with a really well-made pesto. That’s enough. I’d rather have another glass of wine. I don’t have to drive.
It is now clear that I will definitely take Slovenian wine home with me. And to do that I visit the wine shop Vina Koželj not far from the central market. I’m a bit lost as to what to take. But you will get excellent advice here. As already mentioned, Selection Ana is sold out but there is a large selection in this direction. I also want to take an orange wine with me and I definitely can’t carry 2 boxes of wine halfway across the city. The decision is difficult. But they are great discoveries. And yes, he also sends Germany (hurrah!).
Most Wine Bar
Petkovškovo nabrežje 23,
1000 Ljubljana
Koželj Wines Dvor Ljubljana
Dvorni trg 2
1000 Ljubljana
TaBar (Wine bar with small dishes and homemade kombucha)
Trubarjeva cesta 72
1000 Ljubljana
on the market and where to find the best cheese
Ana Roŝ recommends that I definitely go to the big market on Friday or Saturday. And definitely go to the stand with the fermented cabbage and the fermented radishes. When I visited at the end of May, the market was full of apricots, cherries and strawberries. Next to the central market in the old market arcades, I find the cheese shop that offers Jamar cheese. The market here is really central. There are lots of cafés all around, every Friday from 11:00 a.m. there are countless small stands with freshly cooked delicacies and street food classics. I don’t envy the man who is heating up the charcoal grill that day. It’s already almost 30°C.
You just have to love this market. I spend so much time here that I can no longer make my planned cable car ride up to the castle. Another reason to come back.
Hiša domačih sirov ‘Aljaževe dobrote’ (cheese shop)
Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 3
1000 Ljubljana
The small capital impressed me. However, I left something out: the two restaurants AFTR and Strelec (I couldn’t get any more space). I definitely want to go there. And now I’m going to dry radishes.
