“What have I gotten myself into?” I think as I sit on the low edge of a boat pulled by a tractor and drive along the country road. It wobbles, rocks and I don’t really have any grip. I dread every bump and every curve. At that moment, falling overboard would mean landing on the street. I always like to say that there was more adventure in the past. So the adventure thing, I now have it live and in color.
But back to the beginning. My trip to the Vendée brought me here to this enchanting island Noirmoutier where I led the oyster farmer Alain Gendron in his restaurant. He stands in the kitchen and opens one oyster after the other. He’s probably done it a million times because he doesn’t need a glove.
I am asked if I would like to come to the oyster and mussel beds. A group registered for today and booked a special “excursion”. Which, as I find out, you can’t actually book. I just say yes. And that’s where the adventure begins.
overland, through the mudflats to get to the water
The group is made up of 11 French people who love cooking and eating, all of whom know each other through a platform where they take turns inviting the others to dinner. They used to meet once a month, but over time – the group has existed with changing members for 15 years – it became an annual joint culinary trip. Two of them met that way and got married. So there is also reason to celebrate. And to make this trip to the oysters perfect, they have taken precautions and bought wine, cheese, ham and baguettes. At first I feel a bit like the fifth wheel in the car, they’ve all known each other for years and now I’m in the middle of it all. And besides, I’m trying hard to hold on so I don’t fall off this boat. So it’s about that first country road – we jam the traffic a bit, because a tractor like that isn’t the fastest – and continue onto a “road” in the mud flats. Such a tour is only possible at low tide. We drive the tractor to where the water begins. Then we are slowly lowered into the water. Alain gets out and pulls the boat into deeper waters. So the first part would be done. I’m on the sea. Without damage. And then one of the passengers puts a cup in my hand. Wine? Absolutely. It tastes great here in the salty sea air. I feel much better straight away.
Where the mussels are farmed
First we sail to the mussel beds. Millions of mussels are farmed here. They are planted on long strands where they are allowed to grow. Fortunately, mussel farming works particularly well in this region. “Brittany gets the baby mussels from us,” explains Alain, because they don’t reproduce there. They are born here and some of them then travel towards the English Channel.
The sheer quantity of shells is overwhelming. There are the very small ones that settle on the posts, the “bouchots”, and grow there for 2 – 4 years. But they not only grow on the poles, but also on thick cords. This makes them particularly easy to harvest.
Why oysters and mussels thrive so well here
Oysters and mussels have been farmed here on the island for more than 200 years. In the last 50 years, production has experienced an enormous boom and has become an important economic factor in the region. In the mudflats that surround the island, in the Bay of Bourgneuf and in front of the oyster port Port du Bonhomme in La Guérinière, there are areas particularly favorable for oyster farming. The quality of the environment in connection with the work of the around forty producers are the prerequisites for the tasty oysters and mussels.
Why do you only eat mussels in the cooler months?
Mussels feed, among other things, on free-swimming algae. Some types of algae leave toxins in the shells that are unhealthy for humans, and algae blooms can occur in the summer months. Then the mussels filter a lot of algae out of the water and the concentration of the stored poison can rise to unhealthy levels. But when it gets cooler again, the shellfish have long since excreted these toxins. Then the mussels can be eaten safely. Our ancestors already knew about this special feature and therefore adhered to the rule of only enjoying mussels in months with an “R” in the name.
In the meantime we are further on our journey to the Oyster beds. The freezers they brought with them are opened and baguettes with rillette, cheese and ham are distributed. We have now moved on from white wine to red wine. Tastes great too. I also nibble on peanut flips, which I am told are very French. Now, should I mention that I grew up eating Peanut Flips? Maybe it’s because part of my hometown was occupied by the French, but I don’t think that’s the main reason. I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like peanut flips. Aside from that – Oysters and peanut flips – who can say no to that? I’m part of the group now. It’s getting happier and happier.
There are no fresher oysters
And there they lie. Packed in mesh bags. In all sizes. From baby oysters to stately sizes No. 1. There is not just “one oyster” around the island, but different varieties: “Fines”, “Fines de claire” and “Spéciales”. Alain gets off the boat and stands waist deep in the water. He opens various bags so that we can examine the growth stages of the oysters. And then he pulls out his oyster knife. He collects a few of the large oysters and opens them for us (they brought lemons and vinegar for this purpose). I have no other choice – I, who am not one of the biggest oyster fans, have to go through it. After all, eating an oyster that has just come out of the sea is part of the adventure. While almost everyone around me tasty oyster praise, I’m all about the wine to wash it all down. Yes, this exclusive splendor is really wasted on me.
Of course, lemon and vinegar were also thought of
these are still far too small to eat
The restaurant Le Bouclard / Les petits Bassets
Then we drive back to the place where the tractor is. The boat is pulled back onto the trailer and we head back to Alain’s restaurant. After the trip, I really fell in love with my French passengers.
As I later find out, you can’t actually book this tour (maybe if you ask Alain nicely). So I was extremely lucky to be able to witness that.
What everyone who visits Alain can experience, however, are his wonderful oysters and mussels (the restaurant is open from April to the end of October). And for those who aren’t crazy about oysters, there’s also a delicious homemade pie on the menu. By the way, the little snails, which you pick out of their shells with a needle, taste great on buttered bread.
Le Bouclard / Les petits Bassets
Chemin des places
85680 La Guérinière
Disclosure: The trip to Noirmoutier-en-l’Île was supported by Vendée expansion and Tourisme de Noirmoutier. Thank you for this adventure. As always, the impressions are entirely mine.
