Tallinn is different than you might expect. Of course there is the famous old town with its towers and cobblestones – but the Estonian capital has long been more than just medieval romance. Old industrial areas can be found here modern architecturecreative Food spots on traditional markets, street art on design shops. Anyone who walks through Tallinn will quickly end up in neighborhoods like Rotermann, Noblessner or Telliskivi – each with its own pulse.
In September the city also shows off its particularly culinary side: at the “Culinary Month“, restaurants open their kitchens for creative menus, while pure everyday life simmers on the Baltic Market right next to the train station. Whether it’s dumplings at “The Kurze”, a dinner at the legendary Moon restaurant or the latest trends at the Tallinn Design House – food and art are always part of the experience here.
And if you want to get away from the hustle and bustle, the Botanical Garden tempts you with tomato and chili weeks before you return to the hotel in the evening and relax. With the Tallinn Card The whole thing becomes even easier because many museums, rides and attractions are already included.
In short: Tallinn is cool, modern and delicious
The old town
The Old Town of Tallinn (Vanalinn) is one of the best-preserved medieval city centers in Europe and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is compact, easy to explore on foot and is full of history. It was created in the 13th century when Tallinn became a member of the Hanseatic League. The heart of the old town is the Town Hall Square. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants all around. And this is also where most tourists hang out. On hot days (which also happen in September) the shady little streets are a relief. Here I also discovered a delightful little restaurant where I ate a wonderful cream of chickpeas and Jerusalem artichokes with preserved mushrooms (very popular in Estonia), preserved onions and lentil crisps. Plus an Estonian cider that tasted wonderful. The best introduction to Estonian cuisine. 
Restaurant Rataskaevu 16
Rataskaevu tn 16, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia
The Rotermann Quarter
If you stroll from the old town further towards the harbor, you can see a tall chimney from afar. The Rotermann Quarter begins here. Originally it was a large industrial area owned by the Rotermann family, with businesses such as a grain mill, bakery, potato starch, alcohol and wood processing companies. As a result of the decline of industry after the Soviet era, many buildings fell into disrepair, and extensive revitalization began in the 1990s and 2000s. And here it was architecture really brave. Today you can find many bars, cafes and restaurants here urban-cool stylecubist shapes meet old walls, and lots of shops with international brands. 
Tallinn Design House
I really wanted to come here because this store is known for exclusively selling brands Estonian designer to present. Here I discover a pair of earrings that I have always wanted. I’m also thinking about a scarf, but then I think about all the scarves waiting for me at home and no, I’m not buying ceramics (the reader knows my obsession).
Tallinn Design House
Rotermanni tn 14, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia
Noblessner – the exciting mix of architecture, art and marina
The next morning I drive to the Noblessner marina. Apart from a few art students sitting along the waterfront drawing, it is almost deserted. This makes the contrasts between old halls and modern residential buildings appear even more spectacular. The small yachts sway gently in the marina. It’s a bright sunny morning. A few small cafés are already open, but everything still seems a bit sleepy. It only really gets busy here in the afternoon. Then the restaurants and bars here fill up.
Was founded Port Noblessner 1912 by Emanuel Nobel (nephew of Alfred Nobel) and Arthur Lessner, primarily as a factory for constructing submarines. In 2020 it was recognized as a successful example of transformation from industrial to mixed-use urban space. 
If you like something a little out of the ordinary, you can live in igloos right by the water.
IGLOO PARK
Lennusadama 7, Tallinn, 10411, Estonia
September is the “month of culinary delights” – what does that mean?
the black rye bread
Estonian cuisine is an exciting mix of regional tradition, down-to-earthness and influences from Scandinavia, Russia and Germany. In recent years it has also been heavily modernized – “New Nordic” with an Estonian twist, so to speak. In many hotels in the morning there is “black bread” (a very dark rye bread) with meatballs, pickled cucumbers and of course herring. I particularly liked them Pirukad – small filled dumplings, similar to pierogi – tasted good. September is the time of berries and mushrooms. There is also on the market Sea buckthorn and plums.
at the Baltic market at the train station
And this is exactly where you can find the berries, plums and mushrooms that make September so delicious. However, the Baltic Market is more than just food and shopping – there are bars, cafes and small restaurants where you can relax and enjoy a beer at sunset. 
The Telliskivi district
Actually, early in the evening, my feet said that they no longer wanted to be put under any further strain. But I definitely still want to go Fotografiska. The house belongs to the internationally known Fotografiska family (Stockholm, New York, Berlin, Tallinn). It brings top exhibitions of contemporary photography to Estonia. But it also sets standards in terms of cuisine: the restaurant on the top floor has a green Michelin star and stands for this “new Nordic cuisine”. A new exhibition with the theme “Space” has just opened. For space fans like me, this is tempting. But I’m too early. The exhibition isn’t until the next day and I can only take a very brief look. A total of fourteen artists dealt with the universe and I really would have loved to see it.
However, the whole area offers much more than just this museum. There are lots of cool bars (e.g. Junimperium Bar), restaurants and designer shops here. It is probably the most laid-back part of the city and is still undergoing transformation. Here in the Telliskivi Creative City Young Tallinn is particularly drawn to it; it has a flair like Berlin in the early 1990s. Wild, creative and with lots of street art. I just sit in one of the many bars, drink a beer and enjoy the atmosphere.
An interactive map of the Telliskivi Creative City is available here: 
Great cuisine at Moon
And then there is the Moon. A real must and packed except for a few tables on a Thursday evening. Here again there is that industrial charm with hugely high ceilings. The Moon is particularly famous for its Siberian dumplings. These are meat-filled dumplings in such a stunningly good sauce, fatty and dense on the palate, that I’m seriously considering ordering them a second time. I want to travel to Tallinn again just for that. But the veal liver with raspberry sauce, onion chutney and kale is also great. Finally, I drink a dessert wine rhubarb. They particularly like rhubarb here. Rhubarb is available as sparkling wine, as juice and as wine. And it’s actually pretty great. 
Restaurant Moon
Telliskivi tn 60-4, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia
The botanical garden dedicated to chili and tomatoes
I always enjoy visiting botanical gardens on my travels. In this case, I’m attracted by the prospect of a tomato and chili exhibition. Now in autumn, much of the flowers have already faded, and a wonderful calm lies over the extensive area. As I sit on a bench, robins jump around me. In the Palmenhaus café I eat a homemade pumpkin pie and have a drink Estonian raspberry lemonade. Pure relaxation! 
Botanical garden
Kloostrimetsa tee 52, 11931 Tallinn, Estonia
The best dumplings in the city at “The Kurze”
I still have time until my return flight in the evening. And I want to use it and visit what is probably the best dumpling restaurant in the city. Dumplings again, some might think. But these dumplings are a must! They represent the essence of the Dagestan cuisine. They are colorful and some are vegetarian/vegan or filled with meat. Before that I eat a “Lakk Hinkal” an unspectacular looking soup with lamb and small handmade noodles with a tomato puree and coriander that tastes simply great. Spicy, full-bodied and still fresh. And instead of dessert, I order a few “Hinkali” – more dumplings. I know I can no longer be saved. But finally I’m in Dumpling paradise. 
The Short
Kopli tn 23, 10412 Tallinn, Estonia
Why the Tallin Card is worth it
more than 50 sights (including Fotografiska and Botanical Garden), free transfer by tram and bus (including to the airport) and discounts in selected restaurants. This map offers a lot and is extremely practical because it allows you to easily get from one end to the other in the city. Simply download the app to your cell phone, pay and then have the code scanned anywhere. More about this: Tallin Card
Stay overnight cheaply
Tallin offers something for every budget. The GO Hotel Shnelli is centrally located between the Old Town, the Baltic Market and the Telliskivi district. Everything can be reached in a few minutes on foot. I recommend the rooms facing the old town, they are quieter than those facing the train station.
How do you get there?
I’m with you Air Baltic flew from Munich. Cheap, direct and what’s particularly nice – the airport is not far from the center.
Disclosure: the trip to Tallinn was supported by Visit Tallinn. As always, the impressions are entirely mine.
